Day 2 - Phakding to Namche Bazaar

I feel somewhat better this morning, but still do not trust myself to have anything to eat. The route from Phakding to Namche Bazar initially follows the Dudh Kosi gorge, with several crossings of the river on small rickety suspension bridges. Like the previous day, the walls and turns of the gorge largely hide the peaks to the north. The gain in altitude at this stage is slow and we make steady progress, reaching Jorsalle in mid-morning, where we enter the Sagamartha (Everest) National Park and have our trekking permits checked.

We stop for lunch near the Larje Bridge where the Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi join. From this point we will leave the river gorge and start the steep ascent to Namche Bazaar. The height gain is approximately 2,000 feet in a straight line distance of about a mile, so the path winds backwards and forwards to make the climb manageable. The staff advises us to set a very slow and steady pace that we can maintain for some time, rather than having to make frequent stops. This seems to work well, and I initially make good progress. At one point on the climb we get our first view of the summit of Everest, some 20 miles to the north east, peeking over intervening ridges.

About half way up the hill, the combined effects of weakness from my stomach bug and lack of food, combined with the effect of increasing altitude cause me to slow and struggle as I approach Namche Bazaar. Namche Bazaar is the largest town in the Khumbu area, nestled in a natural horseshoe in the mountainside. I am in no mood to take much in and plod wearily on until I finally reach the camp site above the eastern side of the town. I am relieved to have made it and flop into my tent feeling pretty exhausted.

Elevation Profile

Entering Sagamartha National Park at Jorsalle

Suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi at Jorsalle

Gorge of the Dudh Kosi

Camp at Namche Bazaar below Kongde Ri