Day 16 - Gorak Shep to Dingboche

Rob McCarthy
Nov 2, 1988
2 min read

After 3 nights at Gorak Shep, it is time to start our descent back into thicker air. We initially retrace our steps from 3 days ago, back down the western side of the Khumbu Glacier, through Lobuche, until we reach the terminal moraine at the end of the Glacier. Here we take the left fork in the trail and are now on new ground. At the top of the moraine there are a number of cairns and names carved in the rock to provide memorials to both climbers and Sherpas who have died climbing in these mountains. It is a reminder of how harsh this beautiful place can be at the higher altitudes.

Below the moraine, at Dughla, we cross over the river to the western side of the valley, where the trail splits once more. The right fork is the main Everest trail through Pheriche, but we take the left trail that stays higher above the river and heads towards Dingboche. It is a very pleasant walk, gently downhill, walking directly towards Ama Dablam. We are all well acclimatized now, and though this is one of the longer days in terms of mileage, it is an easy day. This trail is fairly quiet, though we do pass yaks grazing or carrying their loads. Yaks are an essential part of the economy in the Khumbu region. Everything north of Lukla, that is not produced locally, has to be carried. This is either done by yaks at the higher elevations, or by a yak/cow cross breed at lower elevations, or by man.

By early afternoon we reach the valley of the Imja Khola, which joins the main valley from the east. Nestling above the confluence of the 2 valleys is Dingboche, our camp site for the next 2 nights. Dingboche is the largest village we have seen since leaving Khumjung, and the lower altitude makes it feel warm at night in comparison to Gorak Shep.